Kayaking to the Petroglyphs

We set out from "downtown" Machiasport in a flotilla of tandem kayaks on a warm, sunny and slightly breezy day. The public launch at this working waterfront was bustling at low tide with skiffs being launched, and we were careful to share the ramp with the fishermen by staying off to one side as we unloaded the boats. The Machiasport Historical Society was also gathered near the water, enjoying what looked like a tasty lobster lunch (though we didn't sample any ourselves). After a quick kayaking refresher course, we headed out South down the bay toward Fort O'Brien and Picture Rocks, our first stop of the day.

The guide service, a family affair led by Rob and Jen Scribner and dad Rick, was excellent - showing not only a love for paddling but also instructing the group on the need to treat with respect the sensitive and sacred sites we visited. On the way, Rick Scribner regaled the crowd with historical accounts of Machias Bay and its unique place in American history as the site of the locally celebrated battle of the Margaretta, which was the first naval battle of the American Revolution. Rick offered us the "short version" on our way to Picture Rocks, but was convinced to offer up "the whole story" later in the day as we paddled across the Bay to another petroglyph site after lunch.

We were greeted at Picture Rocks by Passamaquoddy tribal historian Donald Soctomah and his daughter Lydia, who had generously raked a box of ripe blueberries for us - "in case we needed a little boost of energy" as Donald put it. As we ate lunch, Donald gave a heartfelt talk about these petroglyphs - some over 3,000 years old - on this sacred site used by tribal shaman, and showed us up close (though we never walked on them) the images of deer, moose, birthing women and even a sailing ship thought to represent that of Samuel de Champlain. He stressed that these etchings "pecked" into the ledge with sharp stones before the arrival of iron to the New World were not only significant to the Passamaquoddy people, but are a part of all of our shared history. Unfortunately, some have visited the site in recent years and compromised some of the drawings by doing rubbings, walking on the ledges, and even carving their initials in the rocks. As a result, visiting the site is now only allowed by permission, and I felt privileged to be there and hear from Donald about their significance.

It was an energetic group and a worthwhile trip. All in all, a good day out.